Materials

I followed the materials-list in Rick's plans exactly, with the following exceptions and clarifications:

Plywood

Being a novice at construction, I had to email Rick to asked what he meant by "exterior plywood (sanded one side)". His response: "BCX is an exterior grade plywood which comes one side sanded smooth and one side rough."

The lumber yards out here don't recognize BCX, but they do sell ACX, which is "as smooth as linoleum" on one side, according to one lumber yard. However, I quickly discovered that ACX plywood is very expensive, at least out here in the SF Bay Area. The lowest local price for 3/8" ACX was $25.12. In 3/4", it jumps up to around $40 per sheet.

Meanwhile, I'm using CDX-grade (not smooth) plywood for the non-skating-surface pieces in the construction, which amounts to 5 of 7 of the 3/4" and 4 0f 8 of the 3/8" plywood sheets. Doing so will save me about $15/sheet on the 3/4" and about $6/sheet on the 3/8". (A savings of around $100.) Rick confirmed via email that it would be okay to use CDX for the sides. He recommended sealing the edges that touch the ground, however.

Coping

Following Rick's recommendations, I wanted to use metal pipe instead of PVC for the coping (grind-rail at top of ramps). I wrote and asked Rick how I should change my materials shopping list (specifically, the fasteners) in that case. His reply: "I would fasten it from underneath with 2-2 1/2" lag screws, instead of the the panhead screws. I think four per coping would hold it fine. See the alternate page for that." Instead of plumbing pipe, I bought schedule-40 electrical conduit, in steel, because it is slightly thinner and therefore a bit easier to work with and also slightly cheaper.

Paint

We used four cans of "Glidden - Porch and Floor" latex paint, satin finish, color: steel gray (ID on can: PF 7016). I don't remember what we used for the yellow "safety stripe" on the edges, but I do recommend doing that as well; helps the kids avoid going "over the edge".

Moisture Barrier

Rick mentions in his plans adding a "4 - 6 mil sheet of plastic (as vapor barrier)" under the structure if it is to be located on a moisture-bearing surface (e.g. grass or soil). So I'm just mentioning it here so you remember to add it to your shopping list. :-)

Cost

The materials cost exceeded my initial expectations. Whereas Rick was able to build his ramp in Minnetonka, MN in the Spring of 2001 for about $450, we've spent about $600 here in Contra Costa County in the Spring of 2004.

Lumber:	360.54
Paint:	77.82
Coping:	44.78
Fasteners:	56.98
Tax:	57.60
Other:	1.99
Total:	599.71

Materials, it seems, have gone way up. Nevertheless, I know it's been well worth it. We built this ramp to last, and I know a lot of people will get a lot of enjoyment out of it. We already have. I've fallen on my backside lots of times!